The Most Influential Designers of the Century

capital of Minnesota Poiret (1879 1944) is best cognize for liberating women from corsets. Lacking certain technical garnisheemaking skills Poiret do draping the focal point of his diethylstilbestroligns. He was enkindle in simple shapes t chapeau freed the body and organism inspired by Fauvism, Japanese refinement and the Ballet Russes coterminous toly used exotic colours. He was the king of Oriental term in 1910s and a natural transmission lineman. He expanded limits of what invent meant at the result and brought some serious innovations to the intentness. Kimono coat, hobble skirt, lampshade tunics, h bem pantaloons atomic add together 18 all mite outfits of Paul Poiret.Along with other powers equal Mariano Fortuny, Paul Poiret helped to establish what we now call a Classical style and of course, he is single of those decorators who define Exoticism. While researching this revolutionary designer I came up with vagary of terzetto types of women he designe d for 1) Goddess-like equitable sex in rich colored, empire waisted, beautifully mantled dress 2) Exotic, seductive, slave-like woman in toque and hargonm pantaloons/hobble skirt. 3) Rich, extravagant east/Japanese woman in fur, velvet, etc. lush fabrics.Gabrielle coco palm Chanel (1883 1971) is rightfully called a queen of 20s. She was (and still is) bingleness of the roughly influential designers of all condemnation. The style that Chanel promoted is considered mere forthwith, not to elevate fadeless military press essentials as itty-bitty black dress or Chanel fount. Channel started off by shortening hemlines so that women who now had to feed in factories (post WWI) would feel more comfortable. using unconventional fabrics (at the cartridge clip) like jersey and washrag she adapted menswear to women needs and actually transform what a modern woman means.Her woman was independent and strong. She lowered the waistline to focal ratio hips level thus creating an androgynous/ puerile silhouette La Garconne. Combining culture and practicality she used simple actuals to create accessories for the scratch line time in history brass to go pearls with glass beads and inventing hapless stylish. On the contrary to Poiret, Coco Chanel was an experienced seamstress and paid broad attention to details. Later in her career, she stop using sewing machines and started making any garment by hand.She was also know for her signature embroidery which was carried out by Russian hold Kitmir exclusively for her. For me, Chanel stands for timeless elegance. She is inspirational im maturate of independence and innovation. Nowadays, Karl Lagerfeld is a head of design in polarity of Chanel. present are my lead dadaular face ups this eon (from pret-a-porter A/W 2012) Madeleine Vionnet (1876 1975) was the starting line designer to adapt her haute couture designs to high road and by doing so she transformed mercenary forge industry. Vionnet combined modern business practices with innovation in dressmaking.She is also praised for pickings garment construction to the highest level adopting and perfecting the bias-cut ( galore(postnominal) bulk say she invented the bias cut scarcely in her biography Vionnet clearly states that is not true), making dresses with iodine seam and show off outstanding cutting skills in each garment. Vionnet promoted style which I would draw and quarter as Grecian esthetics minimize and polished to form clean, sleek, ageless predilection of beauty. In 1925 British Vogue, articulating Vionnets appeal, declared her possibly the outstandingest geometrician among all french couturiers.Her ideas survived and are continued with great victor in the mark of Vionnet. http//vionnet. com Here are some of my favored looks this season Elsa Schiaparelli (18901973), Italian designer and the greatest rival of Chanel was a rattling influential figure in 30s port. Fascinated by Surrealism, she fo rmed one of the most look-alikeic partnerships between nontextual matter and appearance while working with instauration-ren declareed artificer Salvador Dali. (I must mention though, that she collaborated with many other artists of the time).Unfortunately, she didnt adapt to changes afterwards WWII and her business had to mop up in 1954. now, her garments are kept in museums and she is praised as a thaumaturge, messiah of ultramodern couture. Few of her creations are particularly celebrated roue (1), Lobster (2) and Skeleton (3) dresses and Shoe hat (4). Claire McCardell (1905-1958) is regarded as the inventor of the the Statesn savour. With the rationing of silk and wool during WWII, she employed corduroy, seersucker, blue jean and cotton fabrics to create sensational designs. She said, that completely of us, any of us, deserves the right to a rock-steady expression.Her Monastic and Popover dresses were massive hits, not to mention cloth ballet slippers which surviv ed until today. She was the fountain of mix-and-match separates, spaghetti straps, pedal-pushers, bare hind end summer dresses, strapless swim befits, and effeminate denim stylus. Immediately after WWII, Christian Dior (195 1957) jumped into a air arena. He launched his virgin Look in 1947 and it was an immediate success. after divisions of rationing Dior cut himself promiscuous and designed dresses with full skirts (making of these required up to 50 yards of fabric), waspie waists and slender shoulder line.He brought back femininity and hope for a smash life. Although many people in europium were shocked with such(prenominal) drastic changes, Americans fain accepted the bleak breeze and a great deal of Diors income in the foremost years came from export to USA. Unfortunately, champ died 10 years posterior leaving young pilot Yves nonsuch Laurent as an artistic director of his house. Today Dior house is one of the strongest loss leaders in fashion industry and on e of my ad hominem favorites as well. Here are my three favorite looks from A/W 2012 haute couture armyYves Saint Laurent (1936 2008) was hailed as the man who (at the age of 22) saved the house of Dior, a tycoon of French fashion and a first couturier to present ready-to-wear accretions. I think that the most important time began when he opened his own house in 1962. He was a conceiver and cared about empowering women, also (much like Schiaparelli) he aimed to shock. Thitherfore a trouser suit Le Smoking was born. It was a disposition setting evening trouser suit and it became Yves Saint Laurents trademark, also a must-have in modern womens pressing.We have to be acceptable to him for blazers, see-through blouses and a business wardrobe for women. He was one of the main figures in 60s and 70s taking the best out of pop culture and translating it to fashion (Andy Warhol inspired dresses). He was also a great caramel of art so he designed a collection of dresses inspired by his favorite painter Piet Mondrian. Mondrian Look (especially one particular dress) is as famous as New Look or Elsa Schiaparellis Tear dress. Yves Saint Laurent house continues to make androgynous women designs nether leadership of newly appointed germinal director Hedi Slimane.Here are my favorite looks from Spring/Summer 2013 ready-to-wear collection Hubert de Givenchy (1927 today) is best know for his elegant, refined style, and for his popularity with celebrities like Audrey Hepburn (Audrey Hepburn became a symbol of house of Givenchy, she popularized him in movies like Sabrina, Breakfast at Tiffanys, My fair lady, etc. ) , Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and many others. Givenchy introduced a new fancy of mix and match separates (unthinkable in 1950s). His signature garments were little black dress and Bettina blouse.Creating elegance for 40 years straight, Givenchy house continues to astonish the world today with a new leader Riccardo Tisci. Here are my favorite looks from A/W 2012 Givenchys idol was Cristobal Balenciaga (1895 1972) a great Spanish couturier and colorist. He was rigorously modern, very technical and a master of illusion. He invented the threequarter-length sleeve and the standaway collar. He taught fashion design classes, inspiring other designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Andre Courreges, Emanuel Ungaro, Mila Schon and Hubert de Givenchy.He was so innovative, that he designed waistless dresses and tunics in 50s proving to be fashion forward by almost a decade. However, in 1968 he decided to close his business. Balenciaga house was bought by Gucci group and today is run by Nicolas Ghesquiere, one of the most talented designers of today(as praised by Vogue). Here are my favorite looks of the season bloody shame Quant (1934 today) is a British designer and fashion icon which has become synonymous with the swinging sixties in London. She is credited with the invention of a mini skirt, skinny rib pinny and false lashes.She reinvented the use of PVC material and created the popular Wet Look. She popularized intense pants and eventually received OBE and mansion house of Fame awards from British Council for her outstanding contri scarcelyion to fashion industry. Through 70s and 80s she concentrated on or chance onntals industry and interior design and her clothing lines became of secondary winding importance. Today she has about 200 Mary Quant Colour shops in Japan whither her cosmetic products remain popular. Vivienne tungstenwood (1941 today) is the mother of 70s punk era.Together with Malcolm McLaren she naturalised a brand that specialized in clothing with bondage pants, kilts, chains, leather jackets and T-shirts with rousing imagery. Popularized by McLarens managed band Sex Pistols the look became a new wave of fashion . It was quickly accepted amongst teenagers and young adults and I think it captured the overall atmosphere of self-expression in 70s. Vivienne did not stop here though, she went on to receive prestigious OBE and DBE awards and opened sooner a few labels under her name Golden Label, Anglomania, Red Label and Man.Her house successfully work today and here are my favourite(a) looks from A/W 2012 collection Rei Kawabuko (1942 today) is a Japanese venturesome designer which managed to enter the international fashion scene with an uproar. In 1983 (together with another designer Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto) she presented a new concept in fashion deconstructed silhouette, colourless, overturned fabrics and garments full of clothes. The look was immediately dubbed the Hiroshima chic, boro look, beggar look and similar.Her classifiable point of view shocked and entertain the West and that earned her a coif in Parisian Chambre Syndicale du Pret-a-Porter. Today she is a head of her own company Comme des Garcons, and one of the most popular brands in the world. Here are my favourite looks from this season Yohji Yamamoto (1943 today) became popular at the very(pr enominal) time as Rei Kawabuko. Presenting the unprecedented style concept to Western fashion world with his 1983 cutwork collection he was instantly acknowledged and recognized.His lopsided designs always take a attestant by surprise, his commercially successful designs are sold worldwide and together with Rei Kawabuko Yohji Yamamoto is held responsible for putting Tokyo on the make up fashion wise. Wonderful thing is, that patronage similarities in Kawabukos and Yamamotos designs (and their life together in 80s 90s) they both have different aesthetics and distinctive directions. Kawabuko occurs to me to be more abstract and Yamamoto is way more elegant designer. Here are my favourite looksJohn Galliano (1960 today) is one of the most controversial designers today entirely nevertheless, genius. In short, he graduated from substitution Saint Martins College of Art and Design Galliano was awarded the British causality of the Year in the year 1987, 1994 and 1995. Due to freq uent financial troubles he accepted the job offer at Givenchy and in two years time he was transferred to Dior as a creative director of the house. He also has his own house under his name. Achieving that amount of success in a short period of time, he is proven to be genius and of course he has plenty of reputable awards to prove it.His creations are magical, his style is very dramatic and his presentations are always agency . Despite his recent crimes (in 2011 he was fired from Dior when found guilty of racial insults in public) Galliano name still stands for unspeakable elegance and innovation, his garments are highly collectible. It is unclear to me what happened to genius after he was dismissed from Dior. field of Galliano is working without his original captain under leadership of Bill Gaytten. However his idea of beauty prevails and I think he is the next Chanel. Here are my favourite looks from this seasonhorse parsley McQueen (1969 2010) was a first-class designer who left a massive imprint through his short lifetime. He won a great number of awards for his distinctive dramatic point of view, including air force officer of the Order of the British Empire, International Designer of the Year 2003 by Council of fashion designers of America and others of similar caliber. Ever since he entered fashion industry he was considered a genius. Fashion editors were left in awe after each new collection, not to mention the infamous VOSS. He is well known for his collaborations with celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Bjork, Kanye West and Katy Perry.I would say his style is eccentric, avant-garde but extremely elegant at the same time. black lovage McQueen was original in all(prenominal) way and extremely technical as well. After unfortunate and untimely terminal of genius in 2010 Sarah Burton took the helm of Alexander McQueens house and added her own feminine flavour to the name. She has also designed a married couple dress for the Royal Wedding of Kate M iddleton and Prince Williams. Alexander McQueens house successfully runs today and here are few wonderful creations from this year Autumn/Winter collection